The Fish Market (Image: Sam Sunny)

After an interminable hiatus, the space in Kips Bay that previously housed Dolcino Trattoria and two other Italian restaurants before that, has finally reopened for business. It is now called Sam Sunny, and it bills itself as a purveyor of authentic Korean food and cocktails with a modern twist. (The “modern Korean” movement strikes again.)

The space has been totally overhauled. The walls have been stripped back to the brick and painted white, cozy black booths have been installed, and a smart bar has been added along the wall opposite. The lighting has been softened considerably: Romance is in the air.

Under “Noodles” (could it be that after so many years as an Italian eatery pasta has been written onto the location’s genetic code?) you will find a kimchi and pork ramen and two renditions of beef noodle soup. Noodles turn up again, this time the cellophane variety in “The Fish Market” — a seafood medley that includes sautéed squid, scallops, shrimp, bean sprouts, and garlic chives, with homemade gochujang.

Sangyupsal, listed under “Grill,” is thick-cut pork belly with sautéed kimchi, steamed tofu, and homemade ssam-jar.

Sam Sunny, 517 Second Avenue (bet. 28th and 29th Sts.), 212-837-1044.

See also…

‘Modern Korean Food’ Comes to the East Village