The challenge initiated three years ago by the still insanely popular Dhamaka to redefine Indian food as New Yorkers know it has a new entrant. Its name is Ishq, the Hindi word for “love.” A brief preamble on the website explains that the word “represents the story of our passion for what we do, what we love.”
Unlike Dhamaka, whose stated specialty is food from the “forgotten side of India,” Ishq seeks to reimagine the food of the subcontinent, oftentimes by substituting “western” ingredients for traditional ones. Venison, for example, is used in place of goat or lamb in the house version of varuval, a southern Indian dish.
Other unexpected offerings include Paneer Laung Latta, a nut-stuffed cheese lasagna with cloves and Lababdar gravy; a lobster tail served in a creamy sauce made with mustard, onion, and coconut; and Cornish hen with musallam gravy, fried cashews, and gold leaf.
One dish, Sikhandari Raan, features a whole baby goat leg served with traditional accompaniments such as irumali roti — a soft, foldable flatbread — dal, and mint chutney. The item requires 24-hour advance notice and serves four people.
Isghq, 202 Avenue A (bet. 12th & 13th Sts.), New York, 646-559-4747.
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