When Il Gradino opened two summers ago, it attempted to draw customers in by offering to prepare any dish they requested, menu be damned. Now, two years later, that pledge remains in force, but the restaurant has added a new incentive to customers by lowering its prices at a time when other city eateries are raising theirs.
Il Gradino is taking other measures to help its clientele stretch their dining dollars, such as increasing the number of pastas, which tend to be more gently priced to start with. The house Bolognese, based on a slow-simmered veal and beef ragu, is a winner taste-wise. Like all pastas it is available in half-portions priced at exactly half the menu listing.
Two dishes, a whole grilled branzino and chicken parm, carry the advice “Particularly large serving, which can satisfy two — sharing charge $8.” The arrangement not only effectively allows two diners to eat for the price of one but cuts down on food waste. We sampled the fish, incidentally, and it featured two generous servings, livened by its radicchio and fennel garnish.
The house turns out a good, solid plate of veal “medallions” in a creamy mushroom gravy, but if you want meat for your main course, the grilled lamb chops are the way to go. The chops are immersed in an unusual, and unusually piquant, sauce of shallots, balsamic vinegar, Cognac, and fresh mint.
Italian cheesecake is the real deal, made with ricotta.
Price range at dinner: First courses—$17 to $24; pastas—$29 to $42; main dishes—$32 to $56; desserts—$ 15.
Il Gradino, 808 Lexington Avenue (bet. 62nd & 63rd Sts.), 646-649-3289, is open Monday through Saturday, noon to 11 p.m., Sunday 5 p.m. to 11 p.m.
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