If you were opening a new restaurant in a space that had been a neighborhood staple for some 45 years, would you seek to preserve elements of the original, or would you do a total makeover? For La Masseria Group, the answer was both. In taking over the space that housed the Upper East Side veteran Parma, which closed in early 2022, the team did more than turn the key. The interiors were totally redesigned by Libby Langdon, and the menu was revamped to reflect the culinary vision of Executive Chef Giuseppe Coladonato. But in deference to the original, the name was retained — after a fashion. The restaurant, which opens tomorrow, is now called Parma Nuova.
Chef Coladonato’s vision encompasses such creations as granotto ai frutti di mare, pasta crafted using a centuries-old grain combined with assorted seafood and cannelini beans. His cacio e pepe is made with Parmigiano Reggiano in place of pecorino (when in Emilia-Romagna…) and served in a large frico.
Parma Nuova is open for dinner seven days.
Mac and Cheese Lollipop
No, this is not a reprise of one of Van Leeuwen‘s typically outlandish flavors. Rather it is a dish that pays homage to National Macaroni and Cheese Day, which falls tomorrow. A Tavola, La Devozione’s more casual eatery offering informal trattoria-style fare, is honoring the food holiday with an unconventional creation inspired both by arancini, the deep-fried rice balls found on the menus of Sicilian restaurants, and good old mac and cheese.
The confection (if that is the right term) is made like conventional mac and cheese except that the finished product is chilled, formed into balls, and deep-fried. The pops are served with a Mornay dipping sauce that is studded with truffles and hazelnuts. A Tavola is located in Chelsea Market, entrance at 428 W. 16th Street, 646-720-0215.