La Devizione's linguine cooked in oolong black tea, whisked in a a garlic milk foam and topped with Ossetra caviar (Image: La Devizione)

2022 is shaping up to be the Year of the Pasta. At least that’s the case in New York, which since the pandemic began has witnessed an unprecedented proliferation of pasta bars.

If you need more concrete evidence of pasta’s preeminence, swing by La Devozione, which opened in Chelsea Market earlier this year and where pasta plays a role in every course — even dessert (pastamisù, anyone?)

The restaurant/retail shop is the brainchild of Giuseppe Di Martino, third-generation owner of Pastificio Di Martino, a 110-year-old company based in Gragnano, near Naples. La Devozione is a celebration of old and new, borrowing traditions that date back to the twelfth century while startling the senses with pasta cooked in coffee or a lemon leaf infusion.

You can watch the open kitchen in action by claiming a seat at the Oval, which offers two tasting menus: a 7-course menu at dinner ($165) and a 4-course menu at lunch ($95). Or choose a seat at one of the refectory tables, where you can order from an á la carte menu offering a selection of informal trattoria-style fare, including starters.

La Devozione, 75 Ninth Avenue (at 16th St.), 646-720-0215.