Ci Siamo, Danny Meyer’s first venture in three years, can finally say its name — which translates to “We have arrived” — and mean it.
The restaurant, in Manhattan Plaza West, is open for business, and as advertised when Tim Gilberto first reported its imminent arrival in May, its menu is simple but appealing. Pastas, a mainstay, are limited to a scant five, secondi to six.
Among the former you will find rigatoni alla griccia — short lengths of the tubular pasta dressed with guanciale, Pecorinio, and coarsely ground pepper. How the dish differs from spaghetti carbonara, apart from the shape of the noodle, has long been a subject of debate.
The main course offerings feature a tempting dish of braised lamb with celery pesto and Brussels sprouts, but your attention is likely to be diverted to the giant wood hearth at the center of the restaurant that occasionally belches columns of flame. Creations born of this inferno include a bistecca Fiorentina, redolent of rosemary: Blushing pink slices of the meat arrive at your table arrayed around the charred bone.
Wines are every bit as bold and robust as you would expect with such food.
Ci Siamo, 100 Manhattan Plaza West, 212-219-6559.