You almost need a score card these days to keep track of the whereabouts of young, up-and-coming chefs on the Michelin circuit. Suyoung Park, who began her career at the two- Michelin Star restaurant Jungsik in Seoul, then moved to New York to run the kitchen at the spin-off of the same name, has been promoted again — this time to head of New York operations for the parent company. Filling the void left at the TriBeCa branch of Jungsik is sous chef Daeik Kim.
To mark his ascension to executive chef, Daeik has designed and executed a new five-course tasting menu for fall and winter. The fixed meal opens with squid stuffed with squid ink risotto and drizzled with a seaweed beurre blanc sauce dappled in turn with smoked trout roe. A lone rice chip provides a textural grace note.
You may have had the comfort dish bibimbap in other Korean restaurants but not likely like this one. Slices of pork belly are confited and wrapped in ssam leaves. The bundle is arranged over dwaengjang-scented rice studded with pickled onion. Squab is treated like steak. The pigeon is dry-aged for three days, oven-roasted, and finished over charcoal. It is served with a simple squab jus.
The cost is $165 per person. A wine pairing will set you back an additional $110, and if you’re really feeling expensive you can opt for a premium wine pairing for $300.
Jungsik, 2 Harrison Street, 212-219-0900.