An Italian Restaurant that Isn’t

Image: Massoni

Italian, that is. Nor is that my take on it. Massoni, in the Nomad Hotel, proudly describes its fare as “Inauthentic Italian,” which partners Dale Talde (of “Top Chef” fame), David Massoni, and John Bush explain is classic Italian dishes with multi-cultural flavors and ingredients.

Steak tartare, among the starters, as a case in point, arrives in the company of pistachio cannoli, and the arrancini are made with what I presume to be basmati rice: The menu identifies it as “biryani” rice.

Many of the cross-cultural nods are to Asia. A Creekstone Farms skirt steak, for example, is served with a yuzu koshu salsa verde in addition to caramelized onions, and the Massoni Caesar — served both as an appetizer at dinner and a main course at lunch — is finished with nori in place of croutons.

Prices at dinner range from $12 to $28 for appetizers, $15 to $19 for pizzas, and $28 to $31 for main courses.

The restaurant is open daily for breakfast and dinner, Monday through Friday for lunch, weekends for brunch

Massoni, 11 E. 31st Street, 212-951-1141.


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