Image: Smoked sawara (Kintsugi Omakase)

Flying under the radar, on the fringes of SoHo, Tribeca and Hudson Square, is Kintsugi Omakase: an understated, fashionable sushi atelier from New York-based creative partners Ashe Yeung, a designer, and Tim Madrid, an art director.

Newly-appointed Executive Chef Victor Chen (formerly of the now-defunct New York Sushi Ko) has brought the name kintsugi — the Japanese art of putting broken pottery pieces back together with gold to embrace imperfections — by removing much of the rigidity found in many omakase sushi services. He instead has created a relaxed atmosphere that focuses on care and passion.

Chef Victor prepares his sushi in the traditional edomae style, but unlike many other sushi chefs, he does not solely use Japanese ingredients. A long-standing relationship with fishmongers allows Kintsugi Omakase to offer locally sourced fish, enabling a broader selection.

Kintsugi’s sushi counter seats 10 and serves three tiers of premium omakase, which include seasonal appetizers and sushi, at non-premium prices:

  • The Grand Street Classic, a 10-course meal for $95
  • The Soho Experience, a 13-course experience for $155
  • The Kintsugi Omakase, a 16-course service for $195

All tastings include a sushi chef’s choice of handroll, gourmet miso soup, tamago, and seasonal dessert.

Kintsugi Omakase, 28 Grand Street, 646-983-4616.