If we learned anything from the deservedly short-lived career in Congress of George Santos, it is the durability of the “ish” suffix in English. Santos used it in his bio (he claimed he was “Jew-ish” on his grandmother’s side), and the coinage briefly acquired “legs.” It was picked up, for example, by Gertrudes, a Prospect Heights restaurant specializing in Jew-ish (read “eastern European”) food.
Which brings us current. Sandwell, a popular Upper West Side sandwich shop that promises “healthy-ish” foods, has opened an outpost in Gramercy Park.
According to its menu, Sandwell is perhaps best defined by what it is not: Its sandwiches are “free of preservatives, nitrates, pork, red meat, butter, cream, or anything fried.” The shop uses ground turkey as the base of its zesty meatballs. The “meat” also stands in for cured sando toppers such as bacon.
As an added gesture toward healthy-ish-ness, sandwiches are “greened.” The turkey meatball sub sports a clump of peppery arugula, and a marinated and grilled chicken breast with whipped burrata, roasted red peppers, and tomato is garnished with both a pesto and fresh spinach.
Sandwell, 250 Third Avenue (bet. 20th and 21st Sts.).
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