Tout Va Bien's steak au poivre.

Time was when Restaurant Row and the blocks surrounding it teemed with moderately priced French bistros. Sadly, almost all of those places are gone now, though a couple weeks ago, one of the old-timers returned to the block of West 51st Street where it had held court since 1949. Its name, fittingly, is Tout Va Bien, which means “All is well.”

The restaurant has been refreshed in a manner that preserves its classic Gallic charm. There are sleek black-and-white tile floors, vibrant red banquettes, and simple dark wooden tables. The walls are lined with the de rigueur touches of nostalgia, ranging from vintage advertising posters to photos of celebs who used to frequent the place to portraits of the original owners.

The food — mussels on the half shell under a blanket of garlic-scented crumbs, a soul-satisfying boeuf bourguignon. — is also of an era. Don’t miss the soufflés.

Tout Va Bien, 311 W. 51st Street, 212-265-0190.